You are stuck.
You need an impact wrench. You know Milwaukee is the brand to buy. But the models are confusing.
The M12 Stubby looks too small. The M18 Mid-Torque looks too heavy.
You are afraid the M12 won’t remove rusted lug nuts. You are afraid the M18 won’t fit in your wheel well.
I have used both. Most people buy the wrong one.
Here is the short answer.
Milwaukee M12 Stubby
The Brutal Verdict: Buy this for sedans, Hondas, and engine bay work. It fits where others can’t.
Check Price on Amazon →
Milwaukee M18 Mid-Torque
The Brutal Verdict: Buy this if you own a Truck/SUV or live in the Rust Belt. It breaks anything, but it’s heavy.
Check Price on Amazon →1. The Winner: Milwaukee M12 FUEL Stubby
Milwaukee M12 Stubby (2554-20)
- Size: Fits inside wheel wells and tight engine bays.
- Power: Removes lug nuts (torqued to 100 ft-lbs) easily.
- Weight: Under 2.5 lbs (Zero wrist fatigue).
This is the main character of modern mechanics.
The M12 Stubby is small. Insanely small. You can fit it inside a wheel well to remove brake caliper bolts without taking the suspension apart. You can reach transmission bolts that usually require a hand ratchet.
It weighs less than 2.5 lbs. You can use it all day. You won’t get tired.
Marketing Hype vs. Reality
The Hype: “250 ft-lbs of breakaway torque.”
The Reality: You only get that power if you use the right battery. If you use a small CP2.0 battery, this tool is weak. It will struggle with lug nuts. To get the advertised power, you must use an XC4.0 or XC6.0 battery.
“I’ve used the Stubby on my Honda Civic for 2 years. It removes lug nuts, suspension bolts, and subframe bolts. The only thing it failed on was a crank pulley bolt.” — Reddit User
The Verdict: If you are a DIYer working on passenger cars, buy this. It is strong enough for lug nuts (torqued to 80-100 ft-lbs) and small enough for everything else.
The Rival: M18 FUEL Mid-Torque (Gen 2)
Some people have trust issues. They don’t trust a small 12-volt tool to do a big job.
For them, there is the M18 Mid-Torque (2962-20).
This is the “Goldilocks” tool. It is not as massive as the High-Torque, but it is much stronger than the Stubby. It delivers 650 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque.
Marketing Hype vs. Reality
The Hype: “Compact design for tight spaces.”
The Reality: It is compact compared to a semi-truck tool. Compared to the Stubby, it is a brick. It is heavy. It is long. You cannot fit this behind a brake caliper. If you use this for small engine work, you will strip bolts.
The Verdict: Buy this if you own a Pickup Truck, a large SUV, or live where they salt the roads (Rust Belt). The Stubby struggles with rust. The Mid-Torque eats rust.
See the Gen 2 Mid-Torque here »3. The Trap: M18 Compact
This is why you are reading this guide.
You will see the M18 Compact (2663-20) and think: “It’s M18, so it must be better than M12.”
You are wrong.
This is an old tool. It uses brushed motor technology (ancient). It produces less power than the M12 Stubby, but it is the size of the M18 Mid-Torque.
It is the worst of both worlds. It is big and weak.
The Verdict: Do not buy this. If you see it on sale, ignore it. It is a trap for people who don’t read specs.
4. Final Verdict: Which One?
This decision is actually simple. It depends on what you drive.
- Drive a Honda/Toyota/Sedan? Get the M12 Stubby. It is lighter, cheaper, and fits everywhere.
- Drive a Ford F-150/Silverado/Jeep? Get the M18 Mid-Torque. The Stubby will fail on your lug nuts.
- On a budget? Save your money. Do not buy the M18 Compact.
